Gun Review: Metro Arms American Classic Commander

(Originally published 05/12)

For those of you who have been following this blog, you know that back in March of 2011, I posted a review of the Metro Arms American Classic II 1911, which at the time I gave high marks.  More than a year later, my opinion of this pistol has not changed.  It continues to perform flawlessly (after having changed out the magazine catch, which I described in a post in June of 2011), and I am well pleased with this firearm.  Pleased enough, in fact, to purchase another Metro Arms 1911…  this time, the American Classic Commander.

 

Metro Arms American Classic Commander

 

 

As you may well know, the Commander is a somewhat shorter version of the American Classic II.  The latter is a full-sized, or “”government,” model, having a full 5-inch barrel with an overall length of 8.375 inches, and weighing in at 37.28 ounces empty.  The Commander has a slightly shorter 4.25 inch barrel for an overall length of 7.5 inches, and a weight of 35.2 ounces.  Not a whole lot of difference.  In fact, the two models use the same magazines interchangeably.  Both have the same grip length, and the controls are placed in the same locations on the pistols, so muscle memory is not affected by switching from one pistol to the other the way it would be with a similar gun with a smaller form factor (like a compact 1911, or a Sig P238, for example).

 The particular American Classic Commander that I chose was the deep blue model, which I purchased from my favorite local gun shop, Tri-Cities Gun Depot.  Unlike the ACII, which is the hard chrome model, my Commander has a rich, dark blued finish.  The bluing seems very even, without any noticeably light spots.  One thing I have noticed, though, since I have had the pistol, and something that has been mentioned on the firearms fora I frequent, is that manipulating the thumb safety has left some scratches in the bluing under the safety, as though there might be a burr or rough spot on the underside of the safety lever.  There was also a very light scratch under the slide-release when I first disassembled the pistol (the proverbial “idiot scratch”), I am assuming from the factory.  Neither of these are deal-breakers for me, especially considering this is going to be a carry gun (provided it meets my reliability requirements) and therefor will be subject to much wear, but I would have preferred a little better QC on this front.

 

Shown with 8-round ACT mag, 7-round flush fit mag not included

 For the most part, this particular pistol seems as well-made as the Classic II.  All of the parts seem well-fitted.  Like the ACII, this model comes with the extended slide-stop, extended magazine release, full beavertail, and extended thumb safety.  The grip safety is a bit more loosely fitted than that of the ACII, but it is not loose enough that it rattles.  The thumb safety engages positively, the trigger is smooth and has very little take-up (it is fitted with an over-travel adjustment screw, too), and the magazine catch engages easily and releases the magazines freely.  The slide to frame fit is also very tight, but not so tight that it drags and causes feeding issues.  Also, like the ACII, the wood grip panels that come with the Commander are nothing to write home about.  Functional, but not fancy.  One thing I will point out is that should you desire to change the grips, the oversized controls may necessitate some minor alteration of the replacement grip panels to allow them to fit without interfering with the operation of the thumb safety and slide release.

 Thus far, using four different magazines, I have fired one hundred seventy rounds through the Commander, and I have had one failure during that time.  The ACT magazine that comes with the Commander is the same 8-round mag that is sold with the Classic II, and I had no issues using that magazine.  Likewise, my Springfield, Colt, and Kimber 7-round magazines have thus far been flawless with this pistol.  The one failure to feed that I have experienced has been with a flush-fit 8-round Triple K magazine, and that was with the second round during the first time I used that particular magazine.  Subsequent uses did not result in similar failures, so I am chalking that one up to magazine break-in.  I have only fired 100 rounds of Blazer Brass and 50 rounds of PMC Bronze 230 gr. FMJ rounds, and 20 rounds of Hornady Custom 185 gr. XTP JHP through the pistol at this time (the single FTF was with the ball ammo).  Thus far, it looks as though the factory magazine catch is working well, so perhaps Metro Arms has addressed that particular issue.

 Accuracy has been very good.  Out of the box, my point of impact was about four inches to the left at 50 yards, consistently.  The Commander, like the ACII, has adjustable 3-dot Novak-type sights, so this was easily and quickly remedied.  Recoil is stronger than with the 5″ model, enough that it is noticeable, but still not enough to be uncomfortable.  These pistols are just a lot of fun to shoot.

 I have been well-pleased with the Metro Arms Commander up to this point.  I will continue to post updates if anything changes, but it looks as though this company is continuing to manufacture and market an excellent line of firearms.  And at an excellent price point…  this particular gun is in the sub-$500 range, but runs like a top of the line model.  I think JMB would be happy.

© 2013,2012

Knife Review: Kershaw Leek 1660BB Spring Assisted Opening Pocket Knife

(Oringinally published 05/12)

Pocket knives are somewhat of a passion of mine.  Like guns, I own several knives, because each one is unique:  different blades for different purposes, and each one has its own story behind it.  I rarely am without a knife, provided I am not in a location where they are prohibited (planes, courtrooms, schools, etc.)  I can still remember the first knife I ever had:  it was a cheap little University of Tennessee Vols keychain knife given to me by my great uncle.  One tiny little knife blade and a file, practically useless as far as knives go, but in the hands of a child (I was 10 at the time…  a bit young, perhaps, by today’s standards, but not unusual at the time) it might as well have been Excaliber.  I carried it with me for a long time, well after the paint had worn off of the handles, until it finally gave up the ghost as I was trying my hand at some whittling.  There have been dozens of knives after that one, but, as they say, you never forget your first.

Pocket knives were an essential tool carried by every male member of my family growing up.  On the farm, one could expect to need a knife at some point nearly every day.  Cutting baling twine, stripping wires, peeling an apple, paring down a replacement axe-handle, using it as an impromptu screw driver…  you just felt naked without a knife in your pocket.  And I can remember most of those knives, the Old Timer my father carried, the Case knife my grandfather favored, the Uncle Henry my cousin Harry kept in his pocket, well-worn after years of use (and abuse), the blades may have been scratched, but were still kept razor sharp.

Today is no different.  I use a pocket knife at work nearly ever day.  And while I have experimented with several different knives throughout the years – everything from Swiss Army knives (during my Scouting days as well as my MacGyver obsessed period) to big Buck lockbacks I wore in a leather sheath on my belt – the “perfect” pocket knife has eluded me.  That is, perhaps, until now.  I believe I might have found a contender for that particular title in the Kershaw Leek.

I have never owned a Kershaw blade before.  I had of course heard of the brand, and had seen their displays at knife shops and outdoor stores, but had never given them much of a second glance.  This knife really came to my attention, however, when I viewed a YouTube video review on the Leek by user LbrtyNJustice4All.  I liked the look of the knife, and I liked some of the features which she pointed out, so I decided to take a closer look at it.  And of course I ended up buying one (from a local knife shop here in town called Tri-City Knife Works…  if you live in the Tri-Cities area of East TN, give them a visit, they have a lot of really nice knives and accessories there, and the service is excellent).

Made in the USA

First things first:  Kershaw is, as you can see, made in the USA.  Now, I am not a drum-beater for all things USA.  I have owned several knives, guns, cars, tvs, etc., that have been made overseas and were excellent items, but I do like to support American businesses when I can…  and when their products are worthwhile.  And the Kershaw Leek that I bought seems very well-made.  It also comes with a limited lifetime warranty, and it also has free lifetime sharpening:  when you need a new edge, you may simply pack the knife up and ship it to Kershaw and they will sharpen it for you.  All you pay is the shipping to the facility.

The particular blade that I purchased is the 1660-BB, which is the designation for the Blue-Black Assisted Opening Linerlock.  It is also known as the “Blue Smoke”  Leek, as the blue and black anodized aluminum handles are not shiny, but matte, giving a little better grip than the slick stainless handles some of the other models use.

The Kershaw Leek  is 4″ long closed, has a 3″ blade (actually, 2 7/8″ by my measurement), and is just shy of 7″ long when opened.  It is 1″ wide at its widest point, 3/8″ thick at its thinnest point, and 1/2″ thick at its thickest point (at the pocket clip).  It weighs a modest 2.4 oz.  This knife disappears in my front pocket.  It is quite a bit thinner than most knives I am used to, and I have big hands, so that may take some adjusting to.

The blade protrusion seen just above the clip provides an alternative to the thumb studs for opening.

The pocket clip is very strong, and it is reversible in that you may switch it so that it is carried either tip up, or tip down.  The knife uses the standard torx screws that have become so popular with knife makers of late, and only two such screws are used to attach the pocket clip.

Razor sharp and a needle-like point

The Leek is a Ken Onion design, and his name is etched on the blade (rather than on the handles like previous models).  The blade is made of Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel, and has a bead blast finish.  This particular knife has a smooth blade from tip to base, unlike the partially-serrated knives that are so popular now.  It tapers to a needle-like point, and the blade comes from the factory razor sharp.

As noted above, this particular model is a linerlock, and I have found that each time the blade is opened, the lock is positively engaged, securing the blade.  The linerlock is also very easy to manipulate, making the knife  truly a one-hand open, one-hand close pocket knife (for those of us with large hands, I suppose).  The Leek uses Kershaw’s SpeedSafe assisted opening technology, which makes it one of the fastest and smoothest operating assisted openers I have ever used.  The blade is fitted with ambidextrous thumb studs which may be used to flick the blade open, but it also comes with a blade protrusion that sticks out of the base of the handle which may be pressed in to release the blade (this is my preferred method of opening).  Once the resistance of the torsion bar that holds the blade closed is overcome, this knife simply leaps open.

Point-block safety keeps the knife closed in your pocket

One other innovation I found interesting is the safety “switch” that Kershaw includes on this model.  It is basically a screw that is captured in a small channel on the tip-end of the handle.  The screw is fitted such that it has free movement back and forth in the channel, and moving the screw moves a slender plastic bar back and forth over the blade tip.  When the safety is engaged, the bar blocks the blade tip from rising, thus preventing the knife from opening.  Simply pushing the screw forward in the channel frees the blade tip and the knife may be opened.  Users with small hands may find the placement of the safety mechanism awkward, but I have found that I can easily manipulate the safety with my ring finger while using my index finger to release the blade.

All-in-all, I have found this to be a great little knife.  The blade is just the right length, it is flat, light, and feels good in the hand.  The one possible detraction I have found is that the blade tip is very fine, and not designed for prying or heavy use.  But if it breaks because I have been using it improperly, then that is my fault, not the knife’s.  This would be a great EDC knife for self-protection, as it is very quickly deployed, and it is razor sharp, and that tip would easily penetrate clothing.  And it is a good deal for the price.  This particular knife has a list price of $74.95, but they can be found quite a bit cheaper.  I bought mine for $44.95, and while I could have saved a couple of bucks by getting it from Amazon or another online retailer, I like helping local businesses like Tri-City Knife Works when I can (by the way, I bought the last one they had in stock, but they will probably be getting more in soon).

So, if you are in the market for a new knife, be sure to check out the Kershaw Leek, or any of their other offerings (they have several different lines of great looking knives).  I think you will like what you see.

P.S.  Thanks to LbrtyNJustice4All for turning me on to this knife!

© 2013,2012

Gun Review: Plum Crazy Sportical — NcSTAR Additions

(Originally published 08/11)

In this follow-up post to my Plum Crazy Sportical review, I will be reviewing some recent additions I have made to the original.  Finally having given in to my curiosity about the AR platform, I am now wholly given over to the customization bug.  In addition to the NcSTAR back-up iron sights I installed shortly after having assembled the rifle, I decided to add a reflex sight.  Also, having nearly blistered my finger on the gas block after rapid firing 100 rounds, I began to think that a vertical foregrip might be in order. And as always, the guys at Tri-Cities Gun Depot were there to make it happen.

The first addition I sought to make was the red dot.  I have always been hampered with somewhat poor eyesight, being nearsighted with astigmatism.  As a result, iron sights are often difficult for me to see.  While the aperture sight of the AR is better suited to my vision than, say, buckhorn sights, at distances fifty yards and above, I still find it hard to get a proper sight picture.  The red dot sight works very well for me, however, making it easier for me to acquire my target quickly and remain on target.  I have used red dots in the past on different rifles, most recently an SKS and a .22LR plinker, so I thought adding one to my AR would be just the ticket.

The red dots I have used in the past have all been tube styles, but for this project, I decided to go with an open reflex sight.  My choice was the NcSTAR Tactical 4 Reticle Sight.  I know that NcSTAR often gets a bad rap from the armchair spec-ops guys on the firearms forums, but most of the people I have talked to who actually own and use their products have no qualms about relying on them.  Plus, with a lifetime warranty, I am willing to give the sight a try.  The different reticles are bright, clear and, while I chose to go with the simple red dot, the option to change reticles depending on the shooter’s need is a big bonus to me.  The sight also has adjustable brightness levels, ranging from 1 to 7, so the shooter can pick the level that suits his or her need.  The kit comes with the sight, a tiny screwdriver to adjust the locking screws, an allen wrench to tighten the scope mounts as well as to make elevation and windage adjustments, two batteries, a cleaning cloth, and a rubber lens cover.  The sight was a cinch to mount on the top rail, and just a few minor tweaks of the reticle adjustments had it dead on.  One other thing I like about the sight is that it absolute co-witnesses with the iron sights.

My next addition was the foregrip.  The DPMS Sportical upper I bought comes with the Glacier Guard handguards, which are apparently proprietary to DPMS.  The holes on the bottom of the guards do not line up with all mil-spec weaver rails.  I first attempted to add a ProMag rail, but was unable to make it work with the Glacier Guard.  Somewhat frustrated, and not really wanting to change out handguards at this point, I was assisted in my quest by Tom and Brian at TCGD.  Tom showed me that (who else?) NcSTAR has an M4 Hand Guard Weaver Rail, which has a floating mounting screw that enables it to mate up with different handguards, the Glacier Guard included.  Feeling that my search was over, I started to look at foregrips, when Brian pointed out to me that the internal fins on the Glacier Guard (which give the handguards the heat dissipation from which the name stems) prevented the washer and nut from fitting properly.  Now this is where  it gets good:   with a great deal of care and patience, Brian used a file and knife to notch out the fins enough to allow the washer to fit, and the rail went on as though it were designed for this particular handguard.  In the meantime, I had picked out the Vertical Folding Grip by the Mako Group.  It has a great feel to it, fits my hand well, and as a bonus it has a battery compartment inside that I now use to store my spare battery and adjustment tools for the red dot sight.  And while I shouldered the rifle and decided where I wanted the grip to go, Tom tightened down the mounting screws to lock it into place for me.  These guys could not have made this any easier for me.  Now that is customer service.

An hour later, I was on the range, blasting away at some aluminum cans at fifty yards.  Everything works just as it is supposed to.  The red dot was right on, and did not lose zero through 100 assorted rounds of Federal .223 FMJ and 5.56 FMJ.  The barrel got smoking hot, and even the Glacier Guards were uncomfortably warm to the touch, but the Mako foregrip made shooting comfortable, and really enhanced my aim shooting freehand.  It is hard to describe the enhanced ergonomics of using such a shooting aid…  it just makes it feel so much better.  Here is a crappy cell phone picture of the Plum Crazy Sportical as she looks now (the magazine is a Thermold 20-round polymer):

A close-up of the vertical grip and rail:

The NcSTAR red dot and rear BUIS:

View through the red dot (setting 7):

View of red dot and BUIS co-witness (setting 7):

View of red dot and BUIS co-witness (setting 1):

Thus far, I am really liking this rifle.  It is accurate, has been totally reliable to this point, and is a lot of fun to shoot.  I will continue to post updates with respect to any of the parts I have added to this gun, to let my readers know how they continue to function.

Finally, just a thank you to Tom and Brian at the Gun Depot for their help in picking out my accessories, and helping me to install them.  When people ask me why I started shopping at Tri-Cities Gun Depot, I tell them it was for the low prices.  When someone asks me why I keep shopping there, I tell them it is because of the unparalleled service I receive there (and the prices are still the best in town, too).

© 2013,2011

Gun Review: The $500 AR Project — My Plum Crazy DPMS Sportical

(Originally published 06/11)

The AR 15…  for many, it is the end-all be-all of rifle platforms.  And for good reason:  it can be just about anything you want it to be.  From short barrel patrol rifle to long range, heavy barreled varmint gun, the modular nature of the AR 15 lends itself to customization like no other weapon.  Stocks, handguards, pistol grips, sights, barrels, gas blocks, fire control groups…  there is nothing on an AR that cannot be made to match a particular shooter’s preferences.  Even caliber is up for grabs:  the standard 5.56 / .223 can quickly become a .204, 5.45, 6.8, 7.62, 9mm, or even .22LR.  The choices are seemingly endless.

And in spite of this, I have never owned an AR platform.  And to be honest, until recently, I have not felt as though I have been missing anything.  I have been very happy with my .22s, my SKS, and my milsurps.  And I suppose I still thought of the AR in terms of the original M16s that our boys in ‘Nam got saddled with — clumsy, prone to jam, impossible to keep clean, and generally disparaged by those veterans who chose to share their stories with me about their time in the service.  Now, a lot has changed since the Sixties (thank God), and the AR has benefited from some technological enhancements that have made the platform much more reliable.  The direct impingement gas system still needs care and cleaning, but you need not be fanatical in your fastidiousness anymore.

Recently, I had a change of mind, and decided I would like to join the thousands of AR enthusiasts and see what I have been missing.  And to do so, I also decided to undertake a sort of self-imposed challenge:  to build a lightweight AR, and to do so for $500.

Now, those of you who have ARs know that this is a nearly impossible task.  Nevertheless, I had an ace up my sleeve.  There is a company in Arizona called PCF manufacturing who turns out polymer AR lowers (C-15) under the name brand “Plum Crazy.”  These lowers are made of a “space-age” teflon-impregnated polymer, designed to near mil-spec dimensions, meaning that they will mate with just about any mil-spec AR 15 upper. And these lowers cost $130…  complete.  That’s right, this is a complete lower, including fire control group, bolt catch, mag release, and six-position collapsible stock, all for $130.  Interestingly, the fire control group includes a polymer hammer and trigger, the mag catch and release are polymer, and even the take-down pin and pivot pin are polymer.  All of this equals reduced weight.

(Image courtesy of clark-corner.com)  Before I went Plum Crazy, I did a lot of research on the product.  I have had several polymer pistols, as well as polymer stocked rifles (a .30-’06 and an SKS, for example), so I am not too worried about the polymer not being able to handle the stresses involved.  Especially considering the majority of stress is absorbed by the upper on an AR.  I did come across a few instances of lowers that had broken, but for every bad experience I found, I read three or four positive reviews.  And more often than not, the naysayers were not owners of the Plum Crazy firearms, but “knew a guy who had a friend who’s brother had one blow up…”  Not exactly dealing with raw data in that situation.

Most importantly, however, is that the company PCF Mfg. offers a 100% lifetime warranty on their products. I dig a company that will stand behind its product.  And even the few people I found who had experienced broken receivers (usually their own fault due to dropping the gun or torquing the receiver while trying to mate it to the upper) had found the company quick to replace their lower.  And they are made in the USA.  I figured it would be worth a try.  It certainly helps my bottom line, both with weight and cost.

Luckily for me, a local gun shop, Brackin’s Gun Alley stocks the Plum Crazy (do yourself a favor and go do business with Brackin’s…  he is, as they say, “good people,” and will do you right).  I was able to pre-order one for $130, which means that after background and tax, I was out $153.  When I got the receiver, I was suitably impressed.  The lower seemed well made, and was thicker and stronger than I had imagined.  The finish has a few minor molding remnants on it, but could be easily removed.  The trigger was what astonished me, however…  while not a match group by any stretch, it is very crisp, with little to no slop, and breaks cleanly at between  4.5 and 5 lbs.  Extremely good for a stock trigger in this day and age.  The one thing that I found fault in is the safety.  An AR safety is designed such that it cannot be engaged if the hammer is in the forward position — the hammer must be cocked back before you can put the safety on.  The Plum Crazy safety, however, can be engaged while the hammer is forward.  Not a deal breaker, but it means it is not mil-spec in this regard, and is something that prospective owners should be aware of.

Now that I had my lower, I needed an upper to go with it.  In keeping with my light weight requirement, I knew I was going to be looking at a pencil profile barrel, most likely the minimum 16″.  I also decided to look at some “slick side” receivers:  receivers that do not have the forward assist, shell deflector, or dust cover.  As a lot of AR fans will point out, these uppers are not mil-spec, but then, neither am I.  I am not going to be heading out to the sandbox anytime soon, so I really do not need the dust-cover…  this is a plinker, plain and simple.  Forward assist is just a way of getting a few more shots in before cleaning your gun, or for forcing a frozen bolt forward in sub-zero temperatures, and is not necessary for my purposes, either.  And lastly, as a righty, the shell deflector would do me no good at all.

So, keeping this in mind, I decided to go with the DPMS Sportical 5.56 upper from MidwayUSA.  The Sportical is designed on the lo-pro receiver, meaning flat-top, no sights, and a railed gas block.  It is designed for someone who is going to add optics to their AR (which I am…  I have a red / green dot sight that needs a good home).  It also comes with your choice of pencil profile or heavy barrel, both in 1 in 9″ twist.

(Image courtesy of midwayusa.com)  Well, it just so happens that MidwayUSA had these uppers on sale for $360.  So I ordered one.  I got it via UPS today, and I assembled the lower and upper this afternoon.  Having read about the tight fit many Plum Crazy owners were experiencing, I was poised to expect a difficult time assembling the rifle.  It was not to be, however:  the pivot went together quite easily, and the rear of the receivers popped right together with just a little pressure from the heel of my hand.  Both pins went in snugly, and the two halves fit as though they were made for one another.

I finally had my AR.  And I came in just over my goal of $500, at $513.  Well, almost.  I forgot the magazine.  A quick trip down the road to the gun shop fixed that.  Add a 30 round metal magazine for $14, and that brings us to a grand total of $527.  If it weren’t for Tennessee’s insane sales tax and the background check, I would have made it.

So, I didn’t make my goal of $500, but I came close enough to make me happy.  This rifle isn’t going to make the front page of ARF.COM, and I am sure that many AR purists will turn their noses up at it, but it fits me well.  I quite like it so far.  Especially the way this gun shoots.  It is almost ridiculously light, just over 6lbs with red dot and 30 round magazine.  I may look at adding back-up iron sights at some point, but for now, for my purposes, the red dot is sufficient.  I think it is going to be a great little rifle.  I have put 25 rounds through it (Federal .223 bulk box 55 gr. FMJ), to sight in the red dot, and to break in the barrel, cleaning after each round per the instructions from DPMS.  Each round chambered and fired flawlessly, spent brass was positively ejected to my right, and the plastic lower hasn’t blown up yet.  When I get through the break-in process, I will post some pictures or a video of how it is shooting.  It may be time to break out another Osama bin Zombie target!!

Update:  I picked up a set of iron sights at Tri-Cities Gun Depot this week, and switched them out for the red dot.  Here are some pictures of the Plum Crazy Sportical setup:

 

© 2013,2011

Gun Review: Remington 878 Automaster Semi-automatic 12 gauge Shotgun

(Originally published in 05/11)

For today’s entry, I have decided to look at one of my more recent acquisitions, considered by some to be an “obsolete” firearm, but which I have found in the short time I have had it to be anything but obsolete.  It is the Remington 878 Automaster.  I know several of you may be scratching your heads thinking I must be mistaken, but this is not a misprint.  Everyone has heard of the model 870 Wingmaster, one of the finest pump-action shotguns ever produced.  Very few have heard of its sister, the 878 Automaster, a semi-automatic shotgun based on the 870 architecture.  And with good reason…  the 878 was only manufactured for five years, with somewhere in the neighborhood of 63,000 (give or take a few) Automasters produced.  These were heady days for Remington, a company at the top of its game and which was putting out some of the finest firearms in the world.  It was also a time for innovation and experimentation, and Remington was making the most of it.  During the early part of the 1960s, Remington was manufacturing and marketing no less than four different autoloading shotgun designs:  the model ’48 (’48 – ’68), the model 58 (’56 – ’63), the model 878 (’59 – ’63), and the model 1100 (’63 – present).  Eventually, the 1100 design won out, but many feel that all of their designs were effective platforms.

The 878 utilizes a gas piston operated by siphoning off combustion gases from the barrel.  Two gas ports located in the barrel ring direct the gases down into the magazine cylinder, where the piston assembly is located.  The piston is then forced backward, operating the action bar which opens the bolt, ejecting the spent round, while the next cartridge is pushed out of the magazine, into the receiver.  The piston return spring then forces the piston and action bar back forward, allowing the bolt to return into battery, directing the new cartridge up and into the chamber.  It is a slick, easy action in operation, and the mechanism greatly reduces felt recoil as so much energy is redirected into operating the piston.  And, unlike the model 58, there is no need to adjust the gas feed for different power cartridges.

One downside to having the piston located in the magazine cylinder, however, is that the capacity of the magazine itself is reduced.  The 878 has a magazine capacity of two shells (with one in the chamber making a total of three shots) — the space that in the 870 is taken up by shells three through five is now home to the piston assembly and the return spring.  This is not an issue for me in that I am limited to three shots by law for migratory birds, anyway.  And since the 878 was designed to use 2.75″ shells only, I will not be using it for turkey or deer hunting, so migratory birds and clay pigeons will be my primary use for this gun.

My Automaster is a 12 gauge, 28″ barrel with a fixed modified choke.  I of course got it used, and it came with no paperwork, so I called Remington to obtain a copy of the owner’s manual, which they are sending me (more on this later).  According to the very friendly and helpful gentleman I spoke with at Remington, it was manufactured in 1960.  There is some light rust in one spot on the receiver, as well as a small spot on the bolt, which I need to touch up, and the bluing is a bit thin in several places.  The wood is nice, but has several dings and scratches which I need to address, as well.  All in all, not too bad for a gun made fifty-one years ago.

I had a chance to test the Automaster by shooting some clays a few days ago.  I was using Remington Lead Game load, 12 gauge, 2.75″, 7/8 oz., 7 1/2 shot… a very light load, which is what Remington recommends for this gun, as today’s modern loads may be a bit too heavy for the antiquated gas system to handle.  I fired fifty rounds through the gun, without any malfunctions of any kind.  The action cycled well, very smoothly, ejecting the spent shells several feet away from me, even considering the light loads I was using.  As I said above, the felt recoil was negligible…  not like shooting a 12 gauge at all.  The gun is very light, mounts easily to the shoulder, and the 28″ barrel swings very easily and smoothly.  The trigger pull is fairly light (ahh, those were the days when guns were designed by shooters, not lawyers), and there is no slop in it either.  I had no problems slapping it as I was swinging through the clays.  I was very pleased with the gun’s performance (my own performance, however, is a different matter altogether).

One of the only issues I have had with this gun is finding out how to clean it.  Anyone who has had a gas-operated firearm knows that in order to keep the gun functioning properly, one must keep the gas system clean.  Now, for the life of me, I could not figure out how to remove the gas piston so that I could clean it.  So, naturally, I hit the internet to find out how to do so.  And much to my chagrin, I could find no information at all on this shotgun.  Oh, there are plenty of people out there who are more than willing to sell you a copy of an owner’s manual, or a copy of a schematic, or a copy of two pages from an American Rifleman magazine from 1961 that shows how to take down the 878 (for a mere $4.98 + $3.00 shipping, I might add).  This just burns me up.  But, based on the condition of the outside of this gun when I got it, I was naturally concerned about the inside of it as well, so I broke down and bought a Remington Arms Factory Gunsmith Service Manual for the 878 (turns out it was a copy, as well) for a measly $11.25, shipping included.

Now, we live in an age where information is power.  And I just spent eleven bucks in order to get some information that should be available for free (granted, Remington is sending me the owner’s manual for free, so kudos to them…  it is service like this that keeps me coming back to them).  So I am going to post a series of photographs showing you how to disassemble the model 878 to remove the gas piston for cleaning, so hopefully no one will have to pay outrageous prices for photocopies of gun manuals again.  (It should go without saying that if you the reader are not confident in your ability to disassemble and reassemble any firearm properly, you should seek the assistance of a trained professional.  If you choose to continue, you alone are solely responsible for any mishaps, including injury or death, that you might experience as a result of failing to properly reassemble your firearm.  In other words, I assume no responsibility for your mistakes.)

First, here is the 878:

 

 

 

 

Before working on any firearm, check to make sure it is unloaded…  then check again.

 

Now, first, remove the magazine cap by unscrewing it.

 

 

Once the cap has been removed, the barrel and forearm may be removed by sliding it forward out of the receiver.

 

 

Now, the forearm may be removed from the barrel by sliding it off of the barrel ring.

 

Here are the twin gas ports inside the barrel ring.  You need to make sure that these are clean and free from obstructions.

 

Here are the corresponding ports on the magazine cylinder.  Again, make sure to clean them out.  Also visible, the action bar on the outside of the cylinder, which is connected to the piston assembly inside the cylinder.

 

Here, I have opened the bolt, which pulls back the action bar and piston, to show the removal notch at the end of the action bar slot.  Note:  The bolt must be closed in order to proceed with take down — I have only opened it here for clarity.  In order to remove the piston, the action bar must be released, allowing it to slide forward to that notch where it can be separated from the piston assembly.

 

Here is a shot of the action bar, showing the retaining stud which connects the action bar to the piston.  When the action bar is all the way forward to the removal notch, the front of the action bar is lifted up, removing the retaining stud from the piston assembly, freeing it for removal.

 

Now, to free up the action bar, first make sure the bolt is closed.  Next, you will reach into the receiver through the loading hatch on the bottom, and press in on the left side shell latch.  It is a flat bar located just inside the receiver, inside a groove against the side of the receiver.  Press the latch in against the side of the receiver, and you will feel it release, and hear a “click,” after which the action bar may be slid freely forward to the removal notch.

 

Here, the action bar has been slid forward to the removal notch.  You can see the tip of the piston sticking out of the end of the cylinder at this point.

 

Holding onto the piston, lift up on the action bar to pull the retaining stud out of its slot in the piston assembly. Note:  The piston assembly is under pressure from the return spring!  Make sure you retain control of the piston or it might be ejected violently from the cylinder, resulting in injury or property damage.

 

The piston assembly and return spring may then be removed from the cylinder.  The retaining stud slot is now visible as a round hole on top of the piston.

 

The return spring may also be removed from the piston by sliding it out of the end of the piston.

 

The piston, spring, and cylinder may now be cleaned.  A note on the bottom of the cylinder says that solvents and oil should not be used on the piston or the inside of the cylinder.  How one is supposed to clean these parts without solvent, or protect from rust without oil, is a mystery to me.  I just used a brass brush to knock the caked powder residue out of the cylinder and off of the spring and piston, wiped them off as best I could using a clean cloth, gave it a little shot of Rem DriLube (teflon), and called it good.

To reassemble, simply put the piston and spring back into the cylinder, push in on the piston until the slot and retaining stud are aligned, then push the stud into the slot reconnecting the action bar to the piston.  Open the bolt, which will pull the action bar back, along with the piston, and the shell latch will return to its normal position.  Slide the forearm back onto the barrel.  While the bolt is still open, slide the barrel and forearm back into place making sure the barrel is fully seated into the receiver, then screw the magazine cap back on.  Release the bolt by pressing in on the magazine follower.  And you are done.  It is not difficult at all once you know how to do it.  When I get around to removing the bolt, I will post pictures of that process, as well.

All-in-all, I am happy that I was able to get this particular gun, as much because of its significance as a piece of firearms history, as because of its fine handling and performance.  I think it will make a fine skeet gun, as well as for doves and upland fowl.  So for those of you who are looking for a good autoloader for such applications, you might consider a good used Remington 878 Automaster…  if you can find one.

© 2013, 2011

Gun Review: Hi-Point 995 9mm Carbine

(Originally published in 04/11)

One thing I cannot abide is gun-snobbery.  Especially when it comes from someone who has never owned or used the firearm they are detracting.  I do not need someone telling me that a firearm is “junk” who has no basis for their assertions.  Granted, there are cheap firearms out there.  But there is a difference between a cheap firearm and an inexpensive firearm.  And that is the primary purpose of this blog:  to get hands-on experience with many different firearms, and to provide readers with a description of my personal experiences with those firearms.  And hopefully, you will add your own personal experiences in the comments, so that I and others may learn from those experiences as well.  Perhaps together we can separate the wheat from the chaff, as it were.

 Hi-Point Firearms are 100% American made, manufactured in Ohio.  The company manufactures semi-automatic pistols in various calibers:  .380 ACP, 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP.  They also produce semi-automatic carbines in 9mm, .40 S&W, and (finally!) .45 ACP.  All of their firearms come with a lifetime, no questions asked warranty:  if anything goes wrong, send it back to them and they will fix it, guaranteed.  I have owned two of the Hi-Point pistols in the past:  the C9 9mm and the JCP, the .40 S&W.  The C9 currently resides with my father, and I traded the JCP away, primarily as a means of reducing the number of calibers I had to buy ammo for.  Aside from a malfunctioning magazine for the JCP (replaced free of charge by Hi-Point under the warranty), I had never had an issue with either of the pistols.  As of the publication of this blog, I own only the 9mm carbine (model 995).  I would like to add a .45 ACP carbine (4595TS) to my arsenal at some point, especially since I now own a 1911, and can share ammunition between the two.

 On to the 995 review.  For those of you who are familiar with this particular firearm, you know that it has undergone a face-lift during the past few years.  The new carbine has been given a very tactical profile, as seen here:

 

 

(Image courtesy of calguns.net)  This gun has rails, well, everywhere.  More than enough rails to add optics, lasers, vertical foregrips, flashlights, etc.  And all of these are available as accessory packages from Hi-Point.  The buttstock is adjustable for length of pull, as well.  The gun comes stock with a 10-round magazine.  I imagine that this self-imposed limitation is intended to shield Hi-Point carbines from another assault weapon ban, or to allow them to be sold in those States where the Second Amendment has been all but forgotten…  but I digress.  15-round magazines are available from ProMag, but while they are praised by some, they are considered to be problematic by most 995 owners.  Additional factory magazines are available from Hi-Point.  The new 995TS, as it is called, retails for $259 new, although they may be found a little cheaper than that at some gun shops.  When you can find them, that is…  it seems Hi-Point carbines are in very high demand, and a lot of shops are struggling to fill the orders that are flooding in.

 My 995 is one of the older models, with the camouflage stock that is no longer produced.  I did not buy it new:  I bought it used at a local gun shop several years ago.  I do not normally buy used guns, but at the time (some things never change it seems), Hi-Point carbines were hard to find, and the camouflaged versions with the compensator and laser were about as elusive as an albino Sasquatch.  So when I happened to come across this one at an almost-good price ($186 OTD), I jumped on it.  These old carbines have a decidedly odd appearance.  They are often referred to as the “Planet of the Apes” stocks, as they somewhat resemble the rifle that Chuck Heston carries in that movie. 

 

 

(Image courtesy of hi-pointfirearms.com)  As Bon Scott says of Rosie, these rifles “ain’t exactly pretty.”  Unlike the carbine pictured, mine has had an olive drab coating added to the receiver and the heat shield, giving it a somewhat different look.  It also has the compensator and laser attached (by the way, I love how the laser has a warning label on it that says “Laser Radiation:  Avoid Direct Eye Exposure”…  I think I would be a little more worried about the muzzle of that rifle pointing at my head than the laser, but hey, that’s just me).  Since the original camo stock is not adjustable for LOP, I added a slip-on buttpad to make it a little longer.  I also added a carry-strap (sling swivels come standard).  Here is a cell-phone picture of how mine appears:

 

 

For this review, I set up two Birchwood Casey 8″ Dirty Bird targets, one at 30 yards and at 50 yards.  Today, the wind was relatively light, with just an occasional breeze crossing the field of fire.  I brought two10-round factory magazines for my 995, so each target had a full twenty rounds of Winchester White Box 115 grain FMJ fired at it.  I did use a shooting bag to support the fore-end as I shot today, in order to see just how close I could get my groups with the gun.  As you can see from the above photograph, my 995 has open sights (hooded front post and fully adjustable rear “ghost ring” peep sights), and the sun was too bright today to employ the laser.  After twenty rounds, the 30 yard target looked like this:

 

 

As you can see, there were a few fliers, but those were all on me.  The shot at the top and the shot at the bottom that are outside of the main group were the first shots out of each magazine.  This carbine shot amazingly tight at 30 yards.  Once I settled down and got into a groove, the bullets just kept hitting the same spot over and over again.  So, after taking a pause to reload the magazines and allow the barrel to cool a bit, I trained the sights on the 50 yard target, with the following results:

 

 

A somewhat larger spread, but still not bad at all for open sights at 50 yards.  While shooting at this target, I did have a couple of failures to feed, the fourth round in both of my magazines both nosed up in the chamber, which caused me to pause a moment to clear the jam.  I am not sure what caused these failures, as it was the same round (4th) in both magazines.  I will take the mags apart and clean and lube them, and will hopefully get a chance to try them out again soon, and will post an update when I have more data.  The fliers in this group came when changing magazines and after pausing to clear the jams.  Otherwise, all of the other shots clustered pretty well.

 I am very pleased with the performance of this carbine.  Recoil is negligible.  The sights are easy to use.  One thing that takes some getting used to is the fact that the charging handle is on the left side of the receiver, rather than the right side where I am used to having it.  I am used to bolt guns with monte carlo stocks where the bolt is worked with the right hand.  The placement of the 995’s handle makes sense in that I need not remove my hand from the pistol grip to charge the rifle, but it will take some adjustment on my part.  The plastic stock at first seems a little flimsy, but it is light and easy to handle, and shoulders well.  This gun may be ugly, but there is no denying that as it is designed, it is comfortable to hold and shoot.  I would like to get my hands on one of the new versions to see how well made the new stock is.  I am a bit troubled by the two failures to feed, but I need to try some different ammunitions, as different firearms like different ammos, and the WWB is not known for its tight manufacturing tolerances:  it is economy bulk ammo, after all.

 Based on the performance today, as well as the previous outings I have had with this rifle, I can recommend the 995 to anyone who is looking for an inexpensive pistol caliber carbine for plinking, and if I can get the FTF issue resolved, I think it would be a reasonable alternative to a pistol for home defense (especially with the laser).  It would make a great zombie gun too, although the 10-round magazines might diminish that role somewhat.

 One last thing:  if you have not tried the Birchwood Casey Dirty Bird targets, give them a try.  I love being able to look out at 50 yards and actually see where my shots are hitting, without having to use a spotting scope!  That is just one less case I have to drag out to the range every time I go shooting.

 For more information regarding Hi-Point Firearms and Birchwood Casey:

 Hi-Point Marketing and Distribution (MKS Supply)

8611-A N. Dixie Drive

Dayton, OH 45414

Toll Free: 877-425-4867

Fax: 937-454-0503

http://www.hi-pointfirearms.com

Birchwood Casey Dirty Bird Targets

http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Targets/TargetDetails.aspx?ProductID=e5ca724c-f8f3-4edb-ba61-4c680535d5b1

© 2013, 2011

Gun Review: Henry Repeating Arms Golden Boy .22LR Lever Action Rifle

(Originally published in 04/11)

Those of you who are hunters or shooting enthusiasts know that our sports are not inexpensive hobbies.  Quality firearms can be found for reasonable prices, to be sure, and one need not spend thousands of dollars in order to get a reliable shooter.  No, the majority of the cost lies in the other necessity:  ammunition.  Ammo is not cheap, at least, not anymore, especially with a 15% price hike across the board in our near future.  And once you shoot it, it is gone (granted the brass can be reused by handloaders, but the powder, primers, and bullets are not quite as recyclable).  That being said, I like many others, have found that in order to be able to indulge in our passion and still put gas in the car and food on the table, reloading centerfire cartridges is becoming a necessity.  However, it is still somewhat affordable to shoot the old stand-by .22LR, and I find myself taking my rimfire rifles and pistols to the range more and more often.

I would like to take a look at one of my more indulgent expenditures for a rimfire rifle.  In November of 2010, I was at Tri-Cities Gun Depot and decided to pull the trigger (so to speak) on a purchase that I had long been contemplating, but just had never gotten around to:  the Henry Repeating Arms Golden Boy.  Now, let me explain:  when I was a child, I spent a lot of time watching cowboy movies and television shows.  Every Sunday morning before church, the now-defunct station CBN would air westerns starting at 6 a.m. (the Cisco Kid) until 10:00 a.m. (Wagon Train), with episodes of Rawhide, the Rifleman, Branded, Gunsmoke, and Bonanza thrown into the mix.  And I would be glued to the set all morning, right beside of my dad.  I think I have seen every John Wayne, Glen Ford, Jimmy Stewart, Clint Eastwood, and Randolph Scott western ever made.  Twice.  And with my love of cowboy culture came, of course, a love of the tools of their trade:  the single-action pistol and the lever-gun.

Now here I am, thirty-odd years later, and I have decided to finally buy that lever-action rifle I have long wanted.  And as I am looking at the rack of rifles behind the counter, I see the Golden Boy.  Now, as I have said in a previous post, I am not a shiny gun kind of guy.  However, the Golden Boy rifle is an exception to this.  This rifle is beautiful.  The Brasslite receiver cover, buttplate, and barrel-ring for this gun are a beautiful gold-brass color, and the finish is exquisite.  It is also seemingly very durable, since I have had it out on several occasions now shooting it, and not a scratch or mar on the finish as of this posting.  But the beauty of this rifle goes far beyond the name-sake receiver.

The Henry Golden Boy is a finely built firearm.  Everything about this gun is well-made, from the distinctive heavy octagonal barrel, to the beautiful American Walnut stock and forend.  And the action is as smooth as melted butter…  there is not even a hint of roughness in working the lever.  And this is true whether chambering .22LR, .22 Long, or .22 Short ammunition (yes, it will shoot all three, so you have even more latitude with your ammunition choices).  Every fitting on the gun is tight, with no slop in the trigger, no gaps between the wood and the metal, and the tubular magazine (holding up to 16 rounds of .22LR) locks positively into place, and slides out with ease for loading.

In fact, the only thing that causes me consternation with this rifle are the sights:  for me, the traditional buckhorn sights, which obviously belong on this spirit of the Old West reborn, are a bit hard to see due to my own physical deficiencies (poor eyesight, something I have fought with my whole life).  Granted, bright fiber-optic sights would be easier for me to use, but would be as out of place as a pig in a prom dress.  Henry offers a scope mount for these rifles, but again, to me a scope is an unacceptable anachronism on a cowboy rifle.

At nearly seven pounds, the Golden Boy is not the lightest rimfire rifle in my collection, but that is ok with me. It has a heft to it that makes it feel like a “real rifle,” and the length of pull is not abbreviated like that on many .22LRs (when will gun manufacturers realize that grown men like to shoot .22s as well?).

How does it shoot?  I have .22LR rifles that I shoot more accurately, but these are fitted with excellent scopes.  As for the Golden Boy, its accuracy is more than acceptable for plinking and hunting.  I have gotten a group of just under 0.73″, with an average group size of 2.87″ at 50 yards, and remember this is with open buckhorn sights.  In my experience thus far, the Henry seems to do better with standard velocity and sub-sonic rounds as opposed to hyper-velocity brands, at least in terms of accuracy.   I would not hesitate to take it hunting.

And just a quick note about the company.  Henry Repeating Arms, located in Bayonne, NJ has dedicated themselves to producing the finest firearm they can, at the most affordable price, using only parts made in the United States, with a lifetime warranty.  And while I own some fine firearms that were manufactured in other countries, I admire a company that puts America and Americans first.  And from what I understand, if you buy a Henry and have an issue or problem with it, if you contact the company via email, you will be answered personally by Anthony Imperato, the owner and president of the company.  A man who stands behind his company and product like that is worthy of my respect, and my business.

So, if you are in the market for an affordable firearm with a great company behind it, look at Henry.  They not only have rimfire rifles available in .22LR, .22WMR, and .17HMR, but they also offer big-bore guns as well.  What better way to get your cowboy on than with a Henry lever-action repeater!

For more information on Henry Repeating Arms:

Henry Repeating Arms

59 East 1st Street
Bayonne, NJ 07002
Tele: 201-858-4400
Fax: 201-858-4435

http://www.henryrepeating.com

© 2013, 2011

Gun Review: Heritage Manufacturing Rough Rider Single-Action .22LR/.22WMR

(Originally published 03/11)

Heritage Rough Rider Single-Action .22LR/.22WMR

 

For my first rimfire review, I have decided to cover my favorite plinker: the Heritage Rough Rider single action revolver, which has become my favorite firearm to shoot. When I go to the range, this gun almost always accompanies me. Why? Because it is accurate, inexpensive to shoot, and, if for no other reason, it is just plain FUN!

A little history lesson first. Heritage Manufacturing operates out of Opa Locka, Florida. It is an American owned and operated company in the business of providing fine firearms at relatively low cost to consumers all across our country. Heritage manufactures its rimfire line of pistols, the Rough Riders, here in the States. A line of big bore single action revolvers is also produced, but these are made from parts manufactured in Italy, then imported and assembled at the Florida plant.

The Rough Rider revolvers are available in both .22 LR (which also allows the use of .22 CB,.22 Short, and .22 Long) as well as .22 WMR, and some, like mine, come with both cylinders which can be swapped out in a matter of seconds by simply pushing in the cylinder-pin release, pulling the pin out, lifting out the cylinder, and replacing it with the new cylinder, then re-inserting the cylinder-pin. Barrel lengths vary from 3.5″ up to a full 9″. There are two types of frames available for these guns: where it is allowed by State law, you can get a RR with an alloy frame, and in other states (HI, SC, IL, and MN) a steel frame is available. The alloy frame is certainly strong enough for the low-power of the rimfire rounds, and it reduces costs, making these pistols some of the most affordable revolvers on the market, under $200 in many places, depending on model (I paid $180 for mine, a blued finish, pearl handled, 6.5″ barrel LR/ WMR combo gun).

A variety of finishes is available, with a traditional blue (which I opted for), a case-hardened finish, a black satin, and a silver satin finish. Purchasers also have a decent selection of grips to choose from, including colored laminated wood grips, Cocobolo grips, synthetic pearl finishes (mine wears the white pearl grips… yeah, call me a New Orleans pimp), as well as synthetic ivory stocks. Some of the Rough Riders come with old fashioned fixed sights which consist of a front blade and a grooved top-strap for the rear sight, while others have adjustable sights. And every Heritage Rough Rider comes with a hammer-block manual safety, an unusual addition to a single action revolver, and one that takes getting used to (I feel that it is unnecessary, but as a former attorney, I understand why the company has opted to include it).

Ok, sure… but how does it shoot? Thought you would never ask. As of the posting of this column, I have fired approximately 1250 rounds of .22LR, 50 rounds of .22 Super Colibri, and 70 rounds of .22 WMR through my Rough Rider. I have never had a single malfunction, apart from having ammunition which failed to fire or squibbed (look for my upcoming review of Remington Thunderbolt ammunition). Even when fanning back the hammer and firing as fast as I can, the timing and cylinder lock-up has always been right on. While I have heard from other owners that have had to tweak their front sight blades to achieve accuracy, mine was dead on right out of the box. One of my favorite skill tests is to line up shotgun shells at 10 and 15 yards and plink at them with this pistol. And this gun is more than capable of making them dance, even at those ranges. I have found that the gun seems to be a bit more accurate with LR rounds than with WMR, which is counter-intuitive to me, but seems to be borne out by the performance of the gun.

After all of those rounds, and the cleanings, and the holstering and unholstering, the finish still seems to be holding up very well, with just a little darkening on the frame around the forcing cone, but a lot of rimfire ammunition is notoriously dirty, and I imagine that has a lot to do with that. The trigger is not the best in the world (not compared to, say, my dad’s old Ruger Single Six, for example), but it seems to have improved with use.

All-in-all, this has been one of my best purchases. I use this gun on a regular basis, and do not see that changing any time soon. Maybe I am just living out my childhood cowboy fantasies (which will also be addressed in my upcoming review of the Henry Golden Boy), but there are few firearms that I enjoy shooting as much as this little revolver. Is it destined to be a family heirloom? Not at all. But I would not be surprised if my Heritage Rough Rider is still being used by future generations of my family in the years to come.

For more information, go to http://www.heritagemfg.com .

UPDATE:  As of May, 2012, Heritage Manufacturing is now part of the TaurusUSA family of firearms.

© 2013,2011

Gun Review: Metro Arms American Classic II 1911 .45ACP

(Originally published 03/11)

As many of you are certainly aware, this year marks the centennial anniversary of the adoption by the United States’ military of the m1911 Colt Automatic Pistol, what many consider John Moses Browning’s finest creation. I happen to be one of that particular group.  I, and many others, feel that while this particular design may be one hundred years old, it is still a viable side-arm, with perhaps the finest trigger of any automatic pistol ever designed.  And as I have never personally owned a 1911, I decided that this year would be the year to remedy that particular deficiency.

So, a couple of weeks ago, I went by my favorite gun shop, Tri-Cities Gun Depot (see my previous post for a review of this fantastic shop) to see what 1911s they had in stock.  And they had several.  There was, of course, a Centennial Colt; a beautiful Kimber; a new Remington (very glad to see them return to the 1911 game); a few Rock Island Armory pieces (very well-made Philippine guns, and very affordable, too); and one with which I was unfamiliar:  the Metro Arms American Classic series, another Philippine gun.  The particular model I was looking at was a very well-made pistol, a full-sized Government model with the 5″ barrel.  But there were some additions to this gun that you do not normally see on a stock pistol:  a full beavertail grip safety, combat hammer, light-weight trigger with overtravel adjustment, three-dot Novak-style sights, extended magazine release, extended slide release, and extended thumb safety to boot.  These guns have a nice blued finish, as well, rather than the Parkerized finish you see on many guns these days.  And most importantly, the fit and finish on the guns I looked at were exceptional for a gun in this price range (sub-$500).  The slide-to-frame fit, especially, was as good as a number of high-dollar guns I had looked at.

Faced with this unexpected choice, I decided to do some homework, and I searched the internet looking for information on these guns.  To be honest, there is not a great deal, but I was able to find some reviews on a few gun forums (or fora, to those guys and girls I had Latin classes with), and for the most part, every review was positive.  One thing that was brought up a few times is the fact that these guns include several MIM parts, but I discount this as a detraction since many “premier” gunmakers, such as Springfield and Kimber, include such parts as well.  I did find that the slide and barrel are forged, which was an added bonus in my estimation.

So, having just about decided to make the American Classic II my newest addition, Tom at TCGD had to throw me another curve.  He asked if I had seen the hard chrome version.  I had not.  To be perfectly honest, I am not much of a shiny gun kind of guy.  I like black guns.  You don’t see fingerprints on them.  They look like tools, not accessories.  But as part of my research, I looked up pictures of the chrome version…  and I was impressed.  Impressed enough to want to see one in person.  Now for the problem:  the Gun Depot didn’t have a chrome gun, and didn’t know when they would be getting one.  Hard to come by apparently, this shiny gun.  Well, I could wait, right?  Right…

As luck would have it, I did not need to wait.  Tom got one in the next week.  And it was love at first sight.  This gun looks even better in person.  The finish was excellent.  The checkered wood grips, while not superb, are much nicer than those on the blued version.  The fit was every bit as tight as on the ones I had previously fondled, er, I mean held.  And the trigger was sweet, breaking at around 4 lbs, I estimate.  Not much more than on the Colt Tom had in the case.  And I knew that it had to be mine.  And following a transfer of currency (the hard chrome is about $100 more than the blued version) and a nod from the TBI, it was indeed mine.

At home, a quick wipe-down and run a patch through the barrel to clear the packing grease and I proceeded to send fifty rounds of PMC Bronze 230 grain FMJ downrange without a single failure of any kind.  As quickly as I could load the single magazine, I would then empty it nearly as quickly.  And the accuracy of this gun is noteworthy.  Recoil is almost negligible (the gun does weigh over 30 ounces).  At thirty yards, all fifty rounds fell within a 6 inch circle, and this shooting standing free-hand about as quickly as I could pull the trigger.  Very nice.  I will update when I am able to get out again and shoot from the bench for groups.

All-in-all, I am very pleased with the ACII.  I feel that it is a lot of gun for the money, and it just goes to show that you do not need to drop a couple of grand on a custom build in order to get a quality firearm.  Since the ACII is full milspec, however, you can feel free to upgrade whatever you want, should you feel the need.  I would recommend to anyone who is looking to celebrate the year of the Colt with a new 1911, stop by Tri-Cities Gun Depot, or your nearest gun shop, and check out the Metro Arms offerings.  I think you will be impressed.

© 2013, 2011

Gun Shop Review: Tri-Cities Gun Depot, Elizabethton, TN

Today, I thought I would write my first review, and as my subject, I have chosen a local gun shop.  Before I begin, however, let me make a couple of things clear:  first, the following comments are my opinion only.  I do not hold myself out to be an expert in this field, I am simply sharing my experiences at this particular establishment.  Second, my commentary is based solely upon my own experience with this particular dealer.  I make no guarantees as to how your own experience may relate.  Caveat Emptor.

Now that the disclaimers are out of the way, let’s talk gun shops.  I love gun shops.  I like few things more than to walk into a gun shop, peer into the glass cases at the polished steel of revolvers, handle a quality 1911, and stare longingly at the racks of rifles and shotguns hanging on the walls.  I can spend hours perusing accessories:  lasers, spare magazines, replacement grips, cleaning supplies, etc.  If I could design my own air freshener, it would smell like Hoppes #9.  I like hanging around other gun people, discussing things only other gun people care about, like twist rates, drop-in replacement hammers, or how much IMR 4350 to put behind that Barnes 168 grain Triple Shok X boattail.

But when I am shopping, I am also concerned about such things as customer service, a good selection of quality items, and competitive prices.  I am not a high-maintenance shopper:  I do not require someone to hold my hand and walk me around the store to find certain items.  However, I do not want to be ignored, either.  Recently, I spent ten minutes standing at a counter waiting for a sales rep to assist me, while the employees were busy talking to one another about their previous evening’s exploits.  This is unacceptable behavior.  When I find a store that has what I am looking for, in terms of service and selection, I will continue to send them my business.  And I am willing to drive a bit farther down the road in order to patronize a shop that has these qualities.

Tri-Cities Gun Depot, in Elizabethton, TN, is just such a place.  TCGD is locally owned and operated by two great guys, Tom and Brian, who really know their guns.  They are friendly, and are always helpful.  Not once have I felt as though I was being ignored, and in fact, most times I have been in the shop, the guys have gone out of their way to make sure I was getting the information I needed.  What is more, it seems like they have personal experience with just about every type of firearm in the shop, which is useful when you are comparing similar firearms.

The shop boasts a great selection of firearms and ammunition, and they offer a number of accessories as well, such as Blackhawk and Uncle Mike holsters, optics, cleaning kits, and even OC sprays and stun guns.  Gun brands include Smith and Wesson, Ruger, Glock, Kahr, Kel-Tec, Taurus, Kimber, Springfield, Walther, Remington, Savage, DPMS, Rossi, H&R, and many more.  Pistols and revolvers, rifles and shotguns, this store has it all…  and if they do not have it in stock, they can probably get it.  Want a stripped lower to do your own AR build?  They got it.  And the complete parts kit to build that lower, as well.  Or, if you are not so mechanically inclined, you can get an AR, already assembled and ready to go to the range.  Or perhaps you reside in the AK state of mind…  they got you covered as well.  870 with adjustable stock and heat shield?  Yeah, they’ve got that.  Too pedestrian for your tastes?  What about a Saiga 12?  Check.  With the drum.  Oh yeah, now we’re talking…

What is more, you get all of the above, along with very good prices to boot.  TCGD is usually within just a few dollars of the lowest prices I have seen on comparable guns for this area.  And to be honest, I am more than willing to spend a little more for gas to drive a few miles out of my way for the good service, especially since I know I will be making up the difference with the lower prices.

To date, I have bought five firearms from TCGD, and that includes the last four firearms I have purchased.  And while I still go to other gun shops, I doubt seriously that I will buy firearms from anyone other than the Gun Depot.  I highly recommend this dealer to anyone who is looking to make a firearms purchase.  Stop by and talk to Tom and Brian, and see what the Tri-Cities Gun Depot has to offer.  I do not think you will be disappointed.

For More Information:

Tri-Cities Gun Depot

1760 West Elk Avenue

Elizabethton, TN 37643

(423) 543-ARMS

http://www.facebook.com/tricitiesgundepot

©  2013, 2010